Friday 28 August - Boating the Cinque Terre

Having walked the track, it was time to see it from a different perspective. The first boat didn't leave until 9:30am so a nice leisurely morning. A full day pass as far south as Portovenere is 20€, so we are glad we have a full day to make the most of it. The first boat out heads north, so that was where we headed. Went all the way to Monterosso, where we checked out some more of the town before retiring for a gelato on the waterfront. It is so popular here. Crowds of Italians arriving and setting up camp on the public and private (20-25€ for two chairs and one shade umbrella for a day) beaches. The population seems dead keen on sun and sea.

Karen having been stung the previous day, we noticed that there was a fair bit of care about jellyfish. Kids sometimes have little nets, we presume to pick up medusi, and there were odd groups watching things in the water.

Only stayed a little while in Monterosso, then back to Vernazza as it has a lovely beach and atmosphere. Got some bruschetta and foccacia for lunch, sat and ate it, then back on the ferry all the way to Portovenere. What a lovely town. The main frontage onto the little port consists of some 50 houses side by side, around 6 stories tall, and all painted in the soft pinks, oranges and yellows favoured around here. Picture postcard attractive. Today just as hot as ever, but at least here there is a good breeze which is quite cooling when we are in it.

Walked out to the point to look at the inevitable church and the remains of the old defensive fortifications. Italians on every rock sunning themselves. We have to say the average body here is enormously more decorative than in NZ, both male and female. Far fewer fat or ugly people, though of course the natural olive complexion does hide a multitude of sins. Wound our way through some back streets down to the port again, and spoilt ourselves to a coffee in one of the waterfront bars. Sally and Karen decided to cool off by braving the water. Sure enough a kindly old Italian gentleman pointed to a medusa less than 1m from where they were warily thinking about getting in. He kept a close eye on it while S and K had a quick dip, they then clambered out before the medusa decided to come closer for a better look. Karen's arm still has a nasty red welt on it but at least the stinging has stopped.

Boated back, and were in our room again by 5:30ish. A nice easy day. We were very glad we went right through the track yesterday, as we really didn't feel much like walking today. The heat is pretty sapping – any climb or airless place has us breaking out in sweat – and a good walk becomes a bit of a bind.

Felt we needed rehydration, so made sure we tanked back up from some nice cold brown bottles, then headed down to the rocks again for a swim with Sally. Took our swim goggles to look out for jellyfish, which proved a good move as there are lots of fish to enjoy watching, but no medusi. We are enjoying the swims, as they are a bonus. Never really expected to swim until the Pyrenees, over 3 weeks away.

Spent a fair bit of time discussing plans for the next couple of days. Thinking we would be leaving on Monday, we would spend Sunday out of town, either in Portofino or Genova. Spent some time on the GPS working out distances and times, and decided that Genova at 2 hours even by motorway, was too far for a day trip, so thought it was either train to Genova, or maybe just Portofino. We are not too fussed about Portofino, as Portovenere will have been quite similar.

A very tasty Nero Siciliana with our dinner – one of our more pricey wines at 2.50€, though normally twice that. We must do another stock-up at a supermarket before we arrive at Ceriana, as like NZ, the wine specials have very good discounts. We really don't know what it will be like living in Ceriana for a full 2 weeks. It will be a long time in a village of 67 families, but may be all the more enjoyable because of that.