Saturday 24 October - Almeria

[Photos: Square in Almeria, The Alcazaba, Greenhouses, Relaxing]

Sandy & Lynette had a bus booked for Malaga and thence Morocco, leaving at 9:30am from Almeria, so it meant a genuinely early morning for a change. All of us ready in good time, so we were able to get away before 8am for the motorway south. The GPS had us off the motorway just 85m before the bus terminal, so that made the trip very easy.

After dropping the others off, we headed for the city centre, finding a good park early. I was in need of a haircut, and there was one right there near the car, so I took the plunge. What a business. Scissors, razor, more scissors, different scissors, eau de cologne spray, more scissoring, neck razoring. All up it must have taken half an hour for a good Spanish haircut. Must say it feels a lot better with less on top.

After the early start, we felt we need some sustenance, so popped into a bar for a chocolate and churros. Good choice. The chocolate was good, though not up to the superb one from Cartagena, and the churros were excellent. The bar was very small, and our food and drink was consumed at the counter beside another group of Spaniards having much the same. The churro mix was made fresh, loaded into a giant syringe and then squeezed in loops into a big vessel of very hot oil.

There didn’t appear to be a great deal to see in Almeria, but we started by visiting the unusual defended cathedral. Frustrating. The main doors had just shut when we headed for our chocolate, and they were still shut when we returned. There was a sign pointing round the corner for the “proper” entrance, but on getting there, closed doors again despite the time being after opening hours. We have found the various opening and closing hours frustrating. At this end of the season, it may be that the hours are not as rigidly kept to, but there have been many occasions when places should have been open, but haven’t. The other opening/closing frustration has been shop hours. The siesta is still very much in force, and even big supermarkets can close from 12:30 to 4:00pm. It hasn’t helped those among us who are inclined to shop, as almost all ordinary shops observe the break.

From the cathedral we went through a couple of squares, including one very pleasant one completely surrounded by buildings, with the entrances being under the buildings, then went up to the Alcazaba, said to be one of the very best Moorish defenses still standing.

It consists of a big fort, with inner and outer walls, and further out a city wall now largely gone, but still visible on the hills and as a couple of remnants towards the port. Our lucky day today, entry was free for some reason. Very much enjoyed the visit. The space inside had been restored as Moorish gardens, similar to what we will see again at Granada at the Generalife. Quite a big complex, so it took us quite some time to walk up to the top and, exploring as we went, then back down again. For some reason, there is an area below full of desert antelopes.

Almeria didn’t have the nice feel of some of the other big Spanish cities we have been to – this region has been left behind compared with further north or south and it shows. We headed back south using the motorway for a bit, then exiting to the coast road, with the aim of doing a bit of sunbathing on arrival. The coast road is quite attractive. Some very big complexes being built, some also clearly sitting there waiting for money or demand.

Unfortunately, the day had clouded over and despite our staying out by the pool, the sun didn’t cooperate and we had to knock off.